Red Rock Rumble

Adventure Travel

July/August 2007

Get ready for white knuckle descents and lung busting climbs, but don’t get distracted by the scenery or there could be spills as well as thrills.

My ears are ringing with silence; the only relief coming from a raven's caw, a collard lizard scampering to find shelter under a desert bush and the sound of my lungs taking in the untarnished air. A tranquil bliss broken by the certainty that what's unfolding beneath my tires is 1,000 feet of elevation gain out of this canyon. Mineral Bottom is the trip's longest and final monster climb. Breathless and sunburnt, we emerge from the serpentine switchbacks with a sense of pride that comes from conquering one of mountain biking's crowning jewels.

Sandwiched between the meandering Colorado and Green rivers in southeastern Utah, the White Rim Trail loops 160-kilometres through a wilderness of mystifying rock formations in Canyonlands National Park Island in the Sky district. Early on, the land around this Island in the Sky mesa was the abode of ranchers and grazing cattle. But, by the 1950s, a perceived need for uranium (in case America felt the urge to nuke the USSR to oblivion) led the Atomic Energy Commission to build this trail – really more of a craggy dirt road – to facilitate its extraction. When the Cold War thawed and the national park came into existence, mining here went the way of the dodo leaving behind a path that is today one of the country’s premier multi-day mountain bike destinations. And it just happens to begin in a most spectacular way.

Everyone talks wildly about the early miles known as the Shafer switchbacks, and madly they should. Dropping me briskly 1,400 pedal-free feet and a geologic age or two from the Colorado Plateau, it’s a challenge to focus on the screamin’ zig zag plunge when all around is a panoramic scene of a red rock and the biting morning desert air is ripping over my cheeks like sandpaper.  

Ten hair-raising minutes later, a group of 12 wide-eyed cyclists’ are deposited at the White Rim – a white, 280 million year old crusty sandstone layer for which the trail is named. Dressed as if we were descending into the Siberian tundra, we strip off layers of big-ticket tech gear in anticipation of balmy times ahead. An anticipation that has lead me to drive 3,000 kilometres from Canada to the American Southwest for the privilege of joining Maggie Wilson, 40, and Mike Holmes, 36, of Magpie Adventures for a 4-day guided pedal through this grand high desert. With at least 100 completed loops, they know the route better than anyone. 

“Over there at Fossil Point is where they filmed the final scene of Thelma & Louise,” Mike with his trademark enthusiasm points out this quirky Hollywood factoid as we pour into Goosenecks Overlook. It’s here I get my first glimpse of the fudge-painted Colorado River as it turns on itself transporting the landscape particle by particle. In the distance, separated by convoluted folds of sandstone is the adventure hub Moab and the snow dusted La Sal Mountains. We’ve only come 13 kilometres and I can see the other riders are already overcome by this mountain bike Shangri-la.

Beneath a blue sky and a dazzling, tepid sun, we spend the afternoon undulating past juniper and cacti in this generally sere landscape until shadows begin to slink across the trail. It’s apparent that the wide-open surroundings and fresh air is bringing out our juvenile sides as I gleefully race Tabi, my fellow canuck travel companion, in to the Airport Tower campground, startling a seldom-seen bighorn sheep into retreat. 

In no time our tent city, named for the 1,400 foot monolith watching over us, is transformed into a world class cookery. “We focus mostly on organic and locally grown foods,” Maggie informs us with her consistently sprightly disposition as she and Mike rustle up miso soup and grilled salmon – not exactly fare that you’d expect in one of the nation’s most isolated places. Happily gourmandizing on Dutch oven apple crisp, we watch as the setting sun turns our environment into a fiery red mantle. With the crisp night air taking hold, we skitter to our tents to sleep the sleep of the dead. A strong desert chill is the only thing keeping me from rolling out my sleeping bag under the arcing Milky Way overhead.

Following a long day on the saddle, morning comes quickly, as the sky impersonates Michael Jackson going from dark to light. The easy start to the day which skirts past the overhung lips of Buck and Gooseberry canyons’ sheer, white-capped sandstone cliffs is welcomed as my legs and lungs labour in this thin desert air. I also find myself struggling not to stop every few tire rotations to photograph this majestic mural. Monument Basin with its towering ivory topped pinnacles alone takes a good chunk out of my memory card. But today’s highlight will not come on the bike.

“We’re totally stoked to get this site,” said Mike during our pre-trip meeting in Moab. His enthusiasm is the result of securing the White Crack campground. Located on a bluff overlooking the parks mysterious and beautiful Maze and Needles districts, this idyllic encampment is the White Rim’s most beloved and difficult to secure.

A relatively short day on the trail affords us plenty of opportunity to hike down the multi-tinged canyon along a dilapidated road built to access the confluence of the Colorado & Green Rivers. On the way, we tread lightly around a myriad of limpid emphemeral pools. Throughout Canyonlands, sandstone basins collect rain water and wind-blown sediment, forming itsy-bitsy ecosystems. Able to tolerate extreme environmental fluctuations, pothole organisms like brine shrimp are as tough as they come. We’ll need to be just as tenacious to take on Murphy’s Hogback.

Built by John and Otho Murphy in the early nineteen hundreds to move their cattle from the White Rim to the top of the Island in the Sky, Murphy’s Hogback is the trail’s most remorseless ascent, requiring a herculean effort and the easiest gears possible just to get over the loose rocks perched on the steepest of inclines. Around each curve, my eyes follow the pencil line of dirt winding up the hogback as I beg the mountain bike gods for forgiveness. My pulse races as if I was on my first date. With lots of pushing and a bit of Hank Williams pumping out of Brian’s iPod, a climbing guide from Moab, we all eventually emerge at 5,200 feet with a panoramic view of Soda Springs Basin’s open expanse and the mammoth flushing Candlestick Tower rising from its basin floor.

There, between bites of sandwiches bursting with palatableness under the hot yellow orb, we reflect on the climbs relentless demeanour, the stunning scenery our pedal strokes are taking us through and the saneness of four riders zipping by in pursuit of conquering this vast path in a single day. With three lung-busting climbs and perpetually distracting geology, Lou Warner’s six hour, thirty-six minute single day lap record seems like more urban legend than the granddaddy of fitness triumphs. Our 4-day pace is agreeable, and with views like that of the Organ Rock formation reaching up along the shores of the Green River below, I have little doubt that I could ride here for weeks without a diagnosis of home-sickness.  

Tummies full, we flash happy-as-shit grins at each other as we launch ourselves off Hogback’s backside along exposed, sheer edges at breakneck speeds. Bounced around like a pinball on my hard-tail, I’m a little green-eyed at those with full-suspension bikes as sensitive as racehorses.

As the track straightens out, Soda Springs Basin brings respite from the abrupt ups and downs though I find myself occasionally airborne as I rattle off the slickrock bumps. Steep, but satisfyingly short-lived Turks Pass affords us a high perch to follow the trail back across the outstretched, water-eroded shelf to Murphy’s Hogback with a feeling that you’re more than just an observer in this giant land. Somehow you are part of it all.

Responsibility comes with the honour of mountain biking in one of the country’s great parks. Take for example, commercial outfitters like Magpie, who are subject to all-embracing inspections from park rangers to ensure there is little impact from bipedal adventurers. We’re pleased as punch that Mike and Maggie have passed their equipment, services and environmental look-see so we can spend nights like this at Candlestick campground watching the satellites wink across a star-saturated sky, while Mike tells stories of past mountain bike outings gone awry. His account of an exposed, snowy night among the Colorado peaks would be excellent fodder for a survivor-like paperback.   

As a cloudless black sky gives way to displays of illumination on distant rock formations, early risers bear witness to the spectacle of the sun’s rays bringing warmth to the desert. With a morning repast of French toast and strong coffee energizing our muscles and spirits, we quickly break down our final camp in eager anticipation of getting to one of the White Rim’s many stop-and-gawk distractions.

Three bumpy kilometres from camp is Holeman slot canyon. Gleaming in the sun, this narrow canyon is the outcome of years of relentless wearing by flash floods. Sliding down water-polished rock, we lower ourselves into deeply eroded notches as vertical cliffs above reduce the sky to a narrow ribbon of blue in a sea of red sandstone. Sections are so narrow that, despite being vertically challenged, I can touch both walls at the same time. A final testament to the last desert storm is the clay-bottom pools which prevent our further descent and turn my cycling shoes into globules of mud. I spend a good 15 minutes picking the clay out of my cleats as I will need them to be fully functional if I expect to pedal over Hardscrabble Hill.

Shifting into the lowest gears we began the climb. Slow and steady. Through lose sand and over glazed rock, we tackle one switchback at a time. My leg muscles scream for relief as I emerge huffing and puffing at the 5,000 foot crest of Hardscarbble Hill to a cluster of cyclists resting their quivering legs and snapping photos of the seemingly misplaced verdant Green River below. I’m all over Maggie’s gastronomic dream trail-mix like a mountain lion on an unsuspecting deer.

The trail now follows the watercourse with its fertile forest of tamarisk. We spot old uranium mines close to the track as rafters let the Green River’s current guide them south. Digging in under a calescent sun, the end is now in sight as we close in on one last challenge that is Mineral Bottom road. Just as the White Rim began with a big descent, so it must end with a hefty ascent.

Grunting upwards, I come to the conclusion that the White Rim is a reminder that the bicycle is a perfect machine for exploring Mother Nature’s most impressive creations. Diehard mountain bikers might think about overlooking this route for Moab’s steeper, gnarlier trails, but looking down wordlessly on this vast remote openness, I’m sure of one thing. I never want to leave.

Wanna Ride?

Guide

Magpie Adventures (www.magpieadventures.com; info@magpieadventures.com) run exceptional 1 to 5 day mountain bike trips along the White Rim (up to $835 USD). Price includes transportation to and from the trail from Moab, all food (most of which is organic), camping accommodation and use of the support truck.  They also run several other excellent mountain bike tours in southern Utah and northern Arizona.

Escape adventures (www.escapeadventures.com) and Rim Tours (www.rimtours.com) also offer guided trips along the White Rim.

DIY

It is possible to cycle this trail self-supported and can be a memorable adventure. However, in addition to trying to secure a permit, one of the biggest obstacles is overcoming the lack of water sources. You will have to carry all your own water or ask that a tour company carry some in for you and then arrange special drop-offs. If you can sweet talk someone into carrying your gear in a support vehicle keep in mind that it must be a 4x4 and the driver needs to have experience with off-road driving. 

Permits

Permits are required to overnight along the trail. With more favourable weather, spring and fall slots are understandably popular. So it’s best to make reservations well in advance if you expect to secure the campgrounds of your choice. The highly coveted campsites are sometimes scooped-up a year in advance. Permits can be reserved starting the second Monday in July for the next calendar year.

You can download the reservation form at www.nps.gov/cany.  Good maps are available at the visitor center and in bike shops located in Moab.

Ride Time

Some riders will complete the 160-kilometer loop from Moab in one arduous day. A moderate push with time to soak in this gift from Mother Nature will let you get around the trail in three to four days self-supported. 

Getting There

Salt Lake City International Airport is the closest hub but it is still a four hour drive to Moab. You can either rent a car in Salt Lake City or use Bighorn Express (www.bighornexpress.com) which runs daily shuttles from Salt Lake City airport to Moab for $65 USD each way.  Flying into Las Vegas or Denver is another option.

Canyonlands Field airport (www.moabairport.com) is located just outside Moab. It’s a small airport but does offer service to Salt Lake City International Aiport.

Canyonlands National Park Island in the Sky Visitors’ Centre is 50-kilometres from Moab. The White Rim’s Shafer switchbacks start 2 kilometres from the visitors centre.

If you are cycling this trail self-supported, there are shuttle companies in Moab who will drop you off and pick you up at trails end. Coyote Shuttle (www.coyoteshuttle.com) and Road Runner Shuttle (www.roadrunnershuttle.com) offer transportation services from Moab. They also whisk mountain bikers to various trails in the vicinity of Moab.

When to go

Known as a "high desert," with elevations ranging from 3,700 to 7,200 feet above sea level, Canyonlands experiences very hot summers, cold winters and less than ten inches of rain each year. Even on a daily basis, temperatures may fluctuate as much as 50 degrees.

Spring (March – May) and fall (Sept – Nov) are the best months for cycling the White Rim. You may be able to fry an egg on your helmet in the summer as you can expect many days over 100 degrees with shade being at a premium.

Bike

Leave the skinny tires at home. This is mountain bike country. Make sure someone in the group is adept at fixing a variety of bike problems. There is no shortage of bike shops in Moab. A good option is Poison Spider Bicycles (www.poisonspiderbicycles.com). A viable option is to rent a bike once you arrive in Moab. They quality of rental bikes is top-notch. 

Gear

In the spring and fall expect pleasant days and brisk, cool nights. It is best to bring attire for both warm and cool conditions. On your bike you may find dressing in layers the best option as it allows you to stay warm during the cool mornings but strip-down when things start heating up under the mid-day sun. A warm sleeping bag is also advisable as is a sturdy sleeping mat since the ground is rarely soft.

Accommodation

The National Park Service requires groups to stay in one of 20 developed campsites along the White Rim Trail. Camping areas and their distances along the trail are listed on the National Park Service web site (www.nps.gov/cany). Each campsite will accommodate up to 15 people and 3 vehicles. The National Park also has excellent campgrounds located in other areas of the park.

There is no roofed accommodation along the White Rim.

Health

Dehydration and heat-related illnesses can be avoided if proper precautions are taken. Regular application of sunscreen can help protect you from the strong desert sun. Don’t underestimate how much you will need to drink while riding this route. This is not a place to skimp. 2 gallons of fluid per person per day is a good rough estimate of how much will be required, especially if you tackle the trail during the warmer months. Strongly consider using fluids with added sugar and electrolytes.

Other Rides

Southern Utah is bursting at the seams with outstanding mountain bike and road bike rides. This includes the world famous Slickrock Trail. www.utahmountainbiking.com is an excellent resource for trail information throughout the state. Bicycle stores in Moab can also help direct you to the sweetest rides. In addition to Slickrock, Porcupine Rim, Amasa Back and Flat Pass are outstanding fat tire jaunts.

Roadies may want to take advantage of the excellent Skinny Tire Festival that occurs in March (www.skinnytirefestival.com). Both Arches and Canyonlands National Parks offer excellent road riding opportunities.

National Parks

Southern Utah has the highest concentration of national parks in America. In addition to Canyonlands National Park, Arches, Bryce, Capital Reef and Zion National Parks offer plenty of opportunities for superb hiking and road riding. More information can be found at www.nps.gov

Guide Books/Maps

Rider Mels Mountain Bike Guide to Moab (Alpenbooks) and Mountain Biking Moab, 2nd Edition: A Guide to Moab, Utah's Greatest Off-Road Bicycle Rides (Falcon) offer up the skinny on all the mountain bike trails in and around Moab. The best map of the White Rim and other Moab trails is produced by Latitude 40° inc. (latitude40maps.com) and can be purchased at bicycle stores in Moab.

Moab

Moab is a world-famous adventure destination. And rightfully so. On its doorstep are superb biking, hiking, rock climbing, canyoonering, and river rafting.

For a list of accommodations, mountain-bike tour operators and other amenities in the Moab area visit www.discovermoab.com

Author Profile

Matthew Kadey is a Canadian-based freelance writer and photographer. In addition to Utah, he has also taken cycling trips to Ethiopia, Ireland, New Zealand, Jordan, Syria, Belize, Guatemala and various regions in North America. Matt believes that points A and B might be interesting, but it’s what’s between them that are truly remarkable. His photography can be seen at www.mattkadey.com