Living Without

Rice is Nice

October/November 2009

The long and short of the world’s most popular gluten-free grain

 Rice, an ancient food staple for billions, is unquestionably the planet’s most important plant. Cheap, plentiful and satiating, Oryza sativa appears in a staggering assortment of shapes, sizes and eye-popping colors and continues to inspire some of the finest culinary creations around the world. In many cultures, this humble, gracefully curved grain symbolizes prosperity, beauty and fertility (hence the custom of tossing rice at newly wedded couples). The verb “to eat” is “to eat rice” in some Asian cultures.  

Save for Antarctica, rice grows on every continent in more than 100 countries. Today, the United States produces more rice than ever before, about 19 billion pounds to be precise, with California and Arkansas leading the way. Though other gluten-free grains, like in-vogue quinoa and amaranth, are getting to be the rage these days, rice remains a nutritious powerhouse for a number of reasons. Easy to digest, rice (especially whole-grain brown rice) has the highest content of B vitamins of any grain and provides a healthy dose of fiber, vitamin E, potassium, zinc, iron, complex carbohydrates and amino acids. Pair it with beans and you have a complete protein. In the United States where rice is not an everyday food for most, allergic reactions tend to be less common.

Not restricted by seasonal availability, ever-versatile rice is always there when you need it for a stir-fry, paella, rice pudding or to gussy up a salad. There are more than 100,000 varieties. Conveniently, most fall into three main categories: short, medium and long-grain.

Long-Grain Rice

A classification of rice whose body is at least three times as long as it is wide. Long-grain rice generally cooks up light, fluffy and less sticky than other varieties due to higher levels of the dry starch amylose. Jasmine and basmati are known as ‘aromatics’ due to the natural presence of 2-acety l-pyroline, a compound responsible for their fragrant taste and aroma.

Best in: Savory dishes, salads, stir-fries, pilafs, curries, Indian, Mexican, Caribbean and Thai dishes, stuffing and fried rice.

Jasmine Thai fragrant rice (also called jasmine rice) has a sweet floral aroma, tender texture and subtle nutty taste. Named after the sweet-smelling jasmine flour, jasmine rice becomes slightly clingy when cooked, unlike other long-grain varieties.

Basmati Hailing originally from the Indian Himalayas, this “Queen of Fragrance” rice is aged after harvesting to lend it a pronounced nutty and popcorn-like taste and smell. Once imported exclusively from India and Pakistan, U.S.-grown basmati is now widely available.

Texmati  A cross between American long-grain rice and Indian basmati rice. Grown in Texas, some epicureans say texmati has a stronger fragrance and flavor than other U.S. long-grain rice but less than pure Indian basmati.

Pecan  A hybrid rice grown in Louisiana that has a rich, nutty flavor reminiscent of – you guessed it. Despite the name, pecan rice has no relation to pecans.

Wehani  A creation of Lundberg Family Farms in northern California, domestic wehani is a russet-colored (thanks to its brilliant red bran layer), slightly chewy rice that splits when cooked and is redolent of buttery popcorn.

Medium-Grain Rice

Typically, medium-grain rice is shorter but plumper than its long-grain kin. When cooked, this rice tends to remain moist and tender and sticks together more than long grain but less than short grain.

Best in: Paella, risotto, casseroles, rice and beans, stuffing, meatloaf, rice salads, breads and desserts.

Valencia  Classically used in paella, Valencia or “Spanish” rice takes it name from a rice-growing province in Spain. It has a wonderful tendency to absorb the flavors of the foods with which it is cooked. Take care not to overcook it or it becomes too sticky.

Black Forbidden  Sometimes called Chinese black rice, the deep-purple color of cooked forbidden rice (attributed to the high levels of melanin in the bran) can add a serious ‘wow’ factor to any meal. Chinese lore says that this rice got its name because only emperors in ancient China were allowed to indulge due to its rarity and nutriti onal might. With a rich, nutty taste and chewy texture, look for it at some health food stores and Asian markets. Black rice should be cooked separately and then combined with other ingredients just before serving to prevent discoloring them.

Black Japonica  Like wehani, striking japonica rice was developed by Lundberg Family Farms. It’s a blend of 25 percent Asian black short-grain rice and 75 percent medium-grain mahogany rice. Each juicy grain has plenty of mushroom and nut undertones. Try serving it with strong-flavored meats like wild game.

Arborio  This is the most popular Italian rice, primarily used to make risotto. When cooked, the outer part of the grain becomes creamy while the inside remains slightly firm to the bite. Arborio absorbs more liquid (and flavors) than most other rice types and is a good stand-in for Valencia when making paella. Conversely, American-grown medium-grain rice can be used much the same way as Arborio.

Carnaroli Highly prized Italian plump white rice. Called the king of rice, carnaroli is ideal for making risotto due to its creamy texture, ability to hold its shape and uniform starch relaease. It can absorb much more liquid than other rice, including Arborio which is in the same rice family. Look for carnaroli rice in Italian markets.

Short-Grain Rice

Short-grain rice has a wide, almost round body. When cooked, it tends to be quite moist and viscous due to high levels of the waxy starch amylopectin. Because the grains stick together, short-grain rice is a practical choice for eating with chopsticks. Also called glutinous rice, short-grain varieties tend to absorb less water and lose their shape during cooking.

Best in: Sushi, desserts, puddings, rice balls, croquettes, and risotto

Sticky Rice Generally an opaque rice with sweet notes and gluey texture but there are numerous types of sticky rice of various hues, such as red and purple. Brown, whole-grain sticky rice tends to be a little less clumpy. Used in Asian desserts, it’s not surprising that it is often called sweet rice. In Thailand, sticky rice is cooked with coconut milk and garnished with mango for a dessert worthy of an airline ticket.

Sushi Rice A short-grain chewy rice, such as Japanese japonica, with smooth glassy grains. Once cooked, the sticky mass can be shaped into ovals and adorned with raw fish or wrapped with other ingredients in nori seaweed.

Bhutanese Red This heirloom food staple of the people of the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan has a wonderful reddish hue, soft texture and complex, earthy flavor. Because it’s semi-milled (part of the bran is removed), this exotic, high-altitude rice cooks up fairly quickly.

Wild Rice

It looks like rice and grows like rice but, botanically speaking, wild rice is not rice. Native to North America, wild rice is a seed of an aquatic grass traditionally harvested by Native Americans in canoes. Today, assertively flavored wild rice has been tamed; much of it is cultivated in man-made paddies. Hand-harvested, organically lake-grown wild rice possesses the most complex smoky flavors but it’s harder to find. Some people think the taste of this aquatic seed is too strong on its lonesome, which is why wild rice is commonly mixed with other rice types.

            Wild rice can take up to 60 minutes to cook, depending on how it’s been processed. If you’re combining rice varieties, be sure to match wild rice with a type that has a similar cooking time or par-cook the wild rice first. Rich in folate, wild rice has a longer shelf life than most grains because it’s dried and slightly fermented. Try in salads, stuffing and soups or as a stand-alone side dish served with richly flavored meats. 

Rice Types

Brown Rice

Brown rice is the entire rice grain with only the hull (inedible outer husk) removed. Unlike white rice, the nutritious bran and germ remain intact, giving brown rice a more pronounced nutty flavor and firmer texture than its polished white brethren. Brown rice requires a longer cooking time but it’s worth it as it’s full of protein, antioxidants, vitamin E, selenium, fiber and magnesium. Slower to digest, it doesn’t spike blood sugar levels. In 2008, brown rice was added to the FDA approved list of whole grains that can make health claims including reducing the risk of heart disease and some cancers. Thankfully, unpolished brown rice has made the jump from health food stores to supermarkets so it’s readily available and easy to find. 

White Rice

White rice has been milled to remove the bran and germ layers, leaving behind mostly the carbohydrate-dense endosperm. This speeds up cooking time and extends the shelf life because the bran and germ contain volatile unsaturated fats that can turn rancid with prolonged storage. While almost all white rice sold in the United States is enriched with thiamin, folic acid, iron, riboflavin and niacin, it’s still wise to choose brown when available for its overall better nutritional profile and flavor.

Parboiled Rice

A good compromise between nutrition-packed brown rice and fast-cooking white, the rice is steamed under pressure first before milling, which ensures that rice grains will stay separated (desirable for stir-fries and salads) and fluffy. It’s almost impossible to overcook the rice, making it a good choice for culinary newbies. Old timers may say that taste and texture are compromised. Pressure steaming forces nutrients from the bran layer into the grain center before the bran is removed during milling. This expedites cooking time and results in a more nutritious white rice. Parboiled rice is commercially marketed by Uncle Ben’s as converted rice. Because it doesn’t absorb liquids well, parboiled rice is not ideal for dishes where flavor absorption is paramount, such as paella and risotto.

Instant rice

Basically, white rice that’s been precooked and dehydrated so it cooks lickety-split. Good for those with busy lifestyles but not nearly as nutritious or tasty as slower cooking whole-grain rice.

Rice’s Guises

Rice can be transformed into a wide variety of allergy-friendly products with many practical and healthful uses in the kitchen.

Rice bran The nutrient-plush outer layer that lends brown rice its eponymous color. Chock-full of thiamin, rice bran was the treatment of choice in the late 19^th century for beriberi, a disease of the nervous system caused by thiamin deficiency. The condition was common in people whose diet was based on bran-free white rice. Use it in baked goods, breads, cereals and pancakes to add a nutritious, gluten-free punch. Rice bran is an excellent source of fiber (see page xx). Store it in the refrigerator and use it within two to three months.

Rice bran oil A culinary oil pressed from the bran of the rice kernel that’s rich in antioxidants like vitamin E, heart-chummy unsaturated fats, and cholesterol-lowering phytosterols. Several studies back-up rice bran oil’s tendency to slash cholesterol levels. With a very high smoke point, bran oil can be used for high-heat cooking, such as stir-frying. In fact, some restaurants are adding it to deep fryers as a trans-fat alternative. With a delicate, nut-like flavor, try it in salad dressings, baked goods and dips.

Rice flour A nutty-tasting, gluten-free flour made from finely ground rice kernels. Rice flour can be used to make pasta, baked goods and other recipes calling for flour. Use it in combination with other gluten-free flours (see page 62). Rice flour is available in brown, white and sweet varieties, descriptive of the type of rice milled to produce it.

Rice paper A delicate wrap made from rice flour and water. Rice paper is popular in Vietnamese cuisine and available at Asian markets. To use, immerse each paper in a shallow baking pan of hot water for roughly 10 seconds or until it begins to soften. Lay each paper on wax paper and let stand until it becomes soft and pliable, about 1 minute. Add desired ingredients and roll up.

Brown rice syrup A mildly sweet syrup with honey-like consistency that contains valuable nutrients. Brown rice syrup is made from cooked brown rice that’s been fermented. Use it like honey, molasses and other liquid sweeteners in recipes in a one-to-one exchange. Use it in moderation as too much can hike blood sugar and promote weight gain. Caveat: Enzymes in the syrup may have been cultured on gluten-containing grains so look for products labeled “gluten-free.”

Rice vinegar Made from fermented rice and often nearly colorless in appearance. Chinese rice vinegar is sharp and sour; the Japanese version is light and mild. Rice vinegar is omnipresent in sushi rice and lends the “sour” taste in Chinese sweet and sour dishes. Slightly sweeter than wine vinegars, try it in salad dressings, marinades and stir-fries. It marries well with sesame oil.

Rice wine Originates from fermented steamed rice but there are many variations in production methods. Sake and mirin (a popular, sweet cooking wine) are two common types of rice wine. Alcohol content can vary from 18 to 25 percent.

Brown rice pasta Available in many shapes, brown rice pasta is gleaned from whole grain rice flour. Perks include a laudable texture and more resistance to becoming mushy when cooked compared to other whole-grain pastas.

Rice cakes A round, semi-hard and crunchy snack food made from puffed rice. On the bland side, top them with smooshed avocado for a satisfying mid-afternoon snack. Go with brown rice cakes for better nutrition. Read labels carefully when choosing flavored versions.

Rice (Asian) noodles Made with brown or white rice flour. Wheat flour is sometimes blended in so make sure the package says ‘gluten-free.’ Very quick to cook and chewy, rice noodles are delicious in soups, pad thai and stir-fries. Neutral in flavor, these noodles work well in saucy dishes.

Genmaicha An exotic tea made by mixing Japanese sencha green tea with toasted brown rice. The brown rice adds a nutty flavor that tempers the tea’s “grassy” taste. Available at well-stocked tea shops or online at tavalon.com

Cooking 101

In a medium saucepan with a snug lid, combine 1 cup rice with 2 cups water or gluten-free broth. If desired, stir in ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer covered until tender (about 25 to 30 minutes for medium- to long-grain white rice, 35 to 40 minutes for brown rice, 20 minutes for short-grain rice, and up to 1 hour for wild rice). Remove pan from heat and let rice stand covered for 5 to 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork and serve.

Rice is too precious to cook it without much thought. Here are some tips on doing it right.

Hands Off Unless you’re making risotto or rice pudding, don’t stir rice as it cooks. Doing so releases the starch and encourages clumping together. To avoid wet, undercooked rice, keep the pan tightly covered with no peeking.

Save Time A 30-minute pre-cooking soak in cold water can cut down on preparation time and make the rice less brittle. This method is particularly recommended for preparing wild rice. Some health zealots believe that soaking rice in water induces germination which stimulates rice enzymes to produce more nutrients. Drain thoroughly before cooking.

Boost Flavor Add spices like turmeric, saffron and cinnamon to the cooking water. Start with ½ teaspoon spice per cup rice and go up from there, depending on taste. Additionally, substitute some of the water for apple juice or orange juice.

Save Leftovers Cooked rice can be refrigerated for up to a week or stored in the freezer for six months. To reheat, add 2 tablespoons liquid for each cup of rice. Cover and heat on the stove for about five minutes. In the microwave, heat on high for about 1½ minutes per cup. Leftover rice is good for making fried rice.

Where to Buy

Some exotice varieties of rice aren’t readly available. I fyou can’t find your chice in the supermarket, visit these websites:

www.lotusfoods.com

www.lundberg.com