Living Without

Ode to Oils

February/March 2010

Drizzle and Sizzle with Speciality Oils.

To say that I’m diversifying my repertoire of dietary oils is an understatement the size of, well, an olive tree. As the natural food stores in my neighborhood expand their variety of

gourmet oils, I’m branching out from tried-and-true oils to interesting specialty products like avocado oil, grape seed oil, coconut oil and far-out hemp oil. These oils offer unusual and sometimes surprising flavors for cooking, dipping, sautéing, drizzling and even stirring into morning smoothies.

Using culinary oils adds natural plant compounds (like antioxidants) and other health benefits to your diet. Nutritionists say that for optimal wellbeing these good-for-you oils (low in saturated fats) should make up between 20 to 35 percent of total daily calories. Healthy fats help your heart beat stronger, your immune system work better and your skin stay moist and dewy. Plus they can add not-so-subtle sophistication to your menu.

Where to start? Here’s help deciphering what’s good in the growing selection of oil products. From allergy-friendly health perks to flavor nuance, these oils are our top picks.

Avocado Oil

Origin Taken from the pulp that surrounds the pit of the avocado

fruit.

Taste Test Avocado oil is blessed with a buttery texture and fullbodied

nutty flavor.

Health Benefits Like olive oil, über-avocado oil is rich in vitamin E and cholesterol-lowering monounsaturated fat (72 percent of calories come from this heart-friendly fat). Interestingly, Ohio State University researchers showed that adding avocado oil

to salad improves absorption of fat-soluble antioxidants, such asbeta-carotene and eye-protecting lutein, found in salad vegetables. Another good reason to banish those bland fatfree dressings.

How to Use This oil has a higher smoking point than most oils (it can go beyond 500 degrees F), so it’s perfect for the grill, oven and stove-top. Also, try mixing it into salsa

and using it as a flavorful garnish for fresh fruit, shrimp, pizza, roasted squash, sliced

tomatoes and toasted gluten-free bread.

Pour This Olivado Cold Pressed Avocado Oil (olivado.com) or La Tourangelle Avocado Oil (latourangelle.com).

Olive Oil

Origin A fruit oil gleaned from the olive tree’s fruit. The vast majority of the 750

million olive trees cultivated for olive oil production are found in the Mediterranean

region, mainly Spain, Greece and Italy.

Taste Test The flavor is influenced by the type of olive tree and where it is growing. Often, the best olive oil is kissed with a peppery edge or fruity tones.

Health Benefits An abundance of polyphenols, monounsaturated fat and vitamin E makes olive oil one of the heart-healthiest options in the oil department. An

impressive 75 percent of calories come from monounsaturated fat, which confers heart protection by lowering LDL (“bad”) cholesterol while simultaneously raising

HDL (“good”) cholesterol levels. The polyphenols in olive oil—its potent antioxidant plant compounds—have been shown to reduce bone loss, improve cholesterol levels, decrease blood pressure, stymie the spread of cancerous cells, reduce inflammation

and prevent the bunching together of blood platelets which protects against stroke and heart attacks. Portuguese researchers found that one major antioxidant in olive oil

called DHPEA-EDA is particularly effective in protecting red blood cells from oxidative damage by menacing free radicals. Consider splurging on more flavorful virgin and extra-virgin varieties, as a recent Annals of Internal Medicine study determined

that these are best for heart health. Minimal processing during extraction leaves more antioxidants, making extra-virgin extra healthy.

How to Use Extra-virgin olive oil is best enjoyed unheated. If cost is a worry, Chef Hinnerk von Bargen, associate professor at The Culinary Institute of America, suggests using more heat stable and less pricey refined (often called “light” or “pure”) olive oil for cooking. Von Bargen recommends you save the made-with-love artisan virgin oil for high-impact flavor, such as brushing over grilled steak, dipping for fresh baked gluten-free bread or drizzling over quinoa and roasted seasonal vegetables.

Pour This Jovia Farms Arbequina Extra Virgin Olive Oil (joviagroves.com) or Apollo Extra Virgin Mistral Blend (apollooliveoil.com).

Coconut Oil

Origin Coconut oil, also known as coconut butter, is obtained from coconut copra, the dried meat of the coconut. It’s separated from the coconut hull and then dried and pressed to extract the oil.

Taste Test Not surprisingly, most coconut oil (particularly the “virgin” variety) has a coconut taste and smell. Refined “nonvirgin” coconut oil has a more neutral flavor, a better choice for those who don’t care for coconut.

Health Benefits It’s true that this wrongly maligned tropical oil is loaded with saturated fat (about 12 grams per tableasspoon) but most of this is in the form of

lauric acid—a medium-chain triglyceride (MCT). Because of a unique structure,

MCTs are more likely to be burned for energy in our bodies rather than stored as

body fat. In fact, a 2008 American Journal of Clinical Nutrition study that administered

four to five teaspoons of MCT oil or olive oil daily to subjects for four months found that those consuming MCT oil lost more body weight and fat mass than those ingesting the olive variety. Lauric acid also has antibacterial properties and, unlike animal-origin saturated fat, may reduce harmful LDL cholesterol while increasing

beneficial HDL levels.

How to Use Because it’s highly saturated, coconut oil has a very high smoke point, making it ideal for high-heat cooking like stir-frying. If you want to add more to your diet, try it in protein shakes and baked goods, as a sandwich spread or on roasted vegetables. For baked goods, von Bargen says you can experiment with ¾ cup coconut oil in place of each cup of butter or vegetable shortening used.

Pour This Nutiva Organic Unrefined Virgin Coconut Oil (nutiva.com) or Tropical

Traditions Organic Virgin Coconut Oil (tropicaltraditions.com).

Canola Oil

Origin Canola oil is extracted from the rapeseed plant, a mustard relative. Since traditional rapeseed plants contain a toxic substance (erucic acid), Canadian scientists (hence the Can in canola) bred a variety of rapeseed they called canola that has much lower levels of this acid.

Taste Test A neutral, unassuming flavor with pale color.

Health Benefits Like olive oil, canola is bursting with healthful monounsaturated fat but is blessed with ten times more alpha-linolenic acid, a type of omega-3 fatty acid reported to protect against cardiovascular disease. A 2007 study published in Nutrition and Cancer found that canola oil in the maternal diet during pregnancy and nursing may reduce the risk for breast cancer in offspring. The study author speculates that omega-3 fats may favorably alter genes involved in breast cancer risk. Canola oil also has some of the lowest amounts of saturated fat of any dietary oil with only 7 percent of total calories coming from sat fat.

            The rumors that canola oil causes myriad health problems are unfounded. However, much of the canola oil on market today is sourced from genetically modified rapeseed plants -- so opt for organic.

How to Use Because of its heat tolerance and plain taste, “canola oil is an excellent cooking oil for sautéing and baking,” says von Bargen. Use more flavorful oils like virgin olive oil for the dressings and sauces.

Pour This Spectrum Naturals Organic Canola Oil ($6.89 for 16 ounces, spectrumnaturals.com) or Loriva Cold Pressed Canola Oil ($5.09 for 12.7 ounces, loriva.com).

Grape Seed Oil

Origin Grape seed oil is pressed from, you guessed it, grape seeds. It’s largely a by-product of winemaking.

Taste Test Slightly nutty with a hint of fruity sweetness, it usually has a light, nondescript flavor. 

Health Benefits Grape seed oil is an excellent source of the antioxidant vitamin E, as well as beneficial polyunsaturated fats including oleic acid, an omega-9 fatty acid that researchers from the University of California, Irvine found can suppress food cravings between meals. During digestion, oleic acid is converted into oleoylethanolamide (OEA), a hunger-fighting hormone that stimulates cells which tell your brain that you’re full. Further, United Kingdom white coats discovered that adding grape seed oil to high glycemic index foods like refined breads, white rice and potatoes can slow the rise in blood sugar. Fast-rising blood sugar triggers your pancreas to release a flood of insulin, a hormone that lowers blood sugar but also signals your body to store fat. A caveat: The nasty chemical hexane is often used to extract the oil from the grape seeds so keep an eye out for organic or expeller-pressed varieties.

How to Use Its high smoke point (the temperature at which oil begins to smolder) makes grape seed oil ideal for hot food preparation, including stir-frying and grilling. “Grape seed oil emulsifies very well. Use it for making mayonnaise and creamy dressings so they won’t separate when chilled,” says von Bargen. He adds that some chefs use grape seed oil in marinades and salad dressings because its unobtrusive taste doesn’t bulldoze other flavors.

Pour This Loriva Expeller Pressed Grape Seed Oil ($5.99 for 8 ounces; loriva.com) or La Tourangelle Grapeseed Oil ($6.99 for 8.45 ounces, latourangelle.com).

Hemp Oil

Origin Hemp oil is pressed from the seeds of the hemp plant. Industrial hemp used to make this oil is a varietal of the Cannabis plant but it contains none of psychoactive substance (tetrahydrocannabinol, or THC) found in marijuana.   

Taste Test Expect an earthy flavor with nutty overtones and a brilliant green hue that is sure to wow even the most staunch olive oil devotees. 

Health Benefits Verdant hemp oil abounds with essential omega-6 and omega-3 fats. Because our bodies are unable to make them from other compounds, they must be consumed from food. What’s more, these fats are present in a 3:1 ratio in hemp oil; exactly what many health experts say is the best ratio for well-being. Because of increased reliance on processed foods and restaurant grub that are largely prepared with low-grade vegetable oils such as soybean and corn that are omega-6-rich, most North Americans consume a ratio that is closer to 10:1 or higher. This skewed ratio promotes inflammation that can spiral into heart disease and diabetes. Hemp is also one of the very few food sources of the omega-6 fat gamma-linolenic acid. A 2008 animal study conducted at the University of Manitoba, Canada, suggests that GLA reduces blood platelet clumping which may help prevent dangerous blood clotting. Other studies hint that GLA is capable of halting the growth of cancerous cells.

Being a hardy, um, weed that’s naturally resistant to most pests, hemp grown for food production does not have to be bathed in chemical pesticides and herbicides. This resiliency allows hemp to flourish in a variety of climatic conditions, promoting better land and water usage. A green choice, indeed.  

How to Use Hemp oil is not suitable for cooking because of its low smoking point and it doesn’t have an overly long shelf life before turning rancid. Therefore, use it regularly and store it in the fridge. Try hemp oil raw in dressings, smoothies, pesto and hummus or for accenting soups, baked potatoes and steamed veggies.

Pour This Manitoba Harvest Organic Hemp Oil ($9.99 for 8 ounces, manitobaharvest.com) or Living Harvest Cold Pressed Organic Hemp Oil ($9.99 for 8.45 ounces, livingharvest.com).

Safflower Oil

Origin Safflower oil is produced from the seeds of the thistle-like safflower, an annual plant native to Mediterranean countries.

Taste Test Generally, safflower oil is colorless without much flavor.

Health Benefits Like many other vegetable oils, safflower oil is brimming with heart-healthy unsaturated fatty acids. A 2009 American Journal of Clinical Nutrition study found that consuming some safflower oil with a meal can reduce hunger and may prevent overeating during subsequent meals. It appears that unsaturated fats stimulate the release of the hormone cholecystokinin, which promotes satiety. There are two types of safflower oil on the market. One is high in monounsaturated fat oleic acid (this is the most common type of safflower oil out there) and the other is high in polyunsaturated fat linoleic acid. Health benefits vary depending on the variety you choose.

How to Use High-oleic monounsaturated types of safflower oil can really handle the heat so try them for frying and baking. High-linoleic polyunsaturated safflower oil is less heat stable and best enjoyed cold. It rIt resists solidification when chilled  and works nicely in make-ahead salad dressings.

Pour This Spectrum Organic High Heat Monounsaturate Safflower Oil ($6.99 for 16 ounces, spectumorganics.com) or Rapunzel Organic Safflower Oil (high-linoleic polyunsaturated, $8.49 for 16.9 ounces, rapunzel.com).

Pumpkin Seed Oil

Origin Made from squeezing the seeds of the pumpkin squash.

Taste Test Pumpkin seed oil has a distinctive and rich nutty flavor and light green color.

Health Benefits Besides being high in healthful polyunsaturated fat, pumpkin oil is loaded with vitamin E, a potent antioxidant that research suggests reduces inflammation and slashes lung and prostate cancer risk. Antioxidants like vitamin E protect our cells against the harmful effects of free radicals. Several studies suggest that pumpkin seed oil can help shrink an enlarged prostate.

How to Use With its low burning point, this oil is not recommended for cooking. Try it as a garnish on grilled fish, potato salad, soups, popcorn, brown rice and steamed leafy greens. Pumpkin seed oil is also wonderful as a replacement for olive oil in pesto and salad dressing.

Pour This Bija Organic Hydro-Therm Pumpkin Seed Oil ($18.49 for 8.5 ounces, florahealth.com) or Rapunzel Organic Pumpkin Seed Oil ($24.99 for 8.45 ounces, rapunzel.com).

Tea Seed Oil

Origin Pressed from the seeds of the same Camillia sinensis evergreen plant that makes up your morning cup of tea. (Who knew?)

Taste Test Light in color with slight notes of lemon.

Health Benefits Tea oil is a very high in monounsaturated fat. Recently, Danish researchers discovered that overweight subjects who consumed a diet rich in this fat for six months improved blood sugar levels, possibly offering protection from diabetes and further weight gain. A Korean study found when mice consumed high-fat diets for 85 days made up of either shortening or green tea seed oil, those eating the latter gained less weight. The scientists surmised that perhaps constituents in tea oil interfere with compounds responsible for the expansion of body fat cells. 

How to Use Like avocado and coconut, tea seed oil can handle the heat, making it useful for sautéing meats and vegetables. For a fresh flavor, toss it into pasta, marinades and dips. 

Pour This Republic of Tea Organic Tea Oil ($15.50 for 17 ounces, republicoftea.com) or Vega EFA Oil Blend (contains green tea seed oil along with hemp, flax and pumpkin oils ($20.95 for 8.5 ounces, myvega.com).

Flaxseed Oil

Origin Flax oil is extracted from the seeds of the Linum utilitatissimum plant.

Taste Test Your palate will immediately notice a robust nutty flavor that’s not to everyone’s liking.

Health Benefits Flaxseed is the best source of the polyunsaturated omega-3 fatty acid alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) of all the dietary oils. ALA helps quell inflammation, a trigger for several chronic diseases. Japanese scientists reported that increased ALA intake can boost levels of adiponectin, a hormone that exerts anti-diabetic and heart-protective functions. A 2009 study published in American Journal of Clinical Nutrition found that omega-3s can help regulate heart rate, which may be one reason why there’s an inverse relationship between ALA intake and heart attack risk. With its high omega 3 content, adding flaxseed oil to your diet can help correct fatty acid ratios, recommended for disease prevention.

How to Use Sensitive to heat, it’s best to keep flaxseed oil out of the frying pan. It adds rich texture to smoothies and is nice drizzled onto oatmeal, yogurt and cottage cheese. Because it is very delicate, you’ll find it in the refrigerated section of grocery and natural food stores. Once home, do the same and keep it in the fridge to prevent rancidity.

Pour This Barlean’s Organic Flax Oil ($9.96 for 8 ounces, barleans,com) or Omega Nutrition Organic Flax Oil ($11.85 for 12 ounces, omeganutrition.com).

Label Lingo

Extra-Virgin Extra-virgin oil results from the first pressing of the olives so it has lower acidity and richer color, aroma and flavor. This term doesn’t really apply to other oils so when you see it on, say, avocado or a coconut oil, it’s more of a marketing strategy.

Virgin Also the result of the first pressing of the olives. This olive oil is more acidic and the flavor is less robust than extra-virgin because late-season or overripe olives are often used.

Light All oil has 120 calories and 14 grams of fat per tablespoon. Light just means lighter in color and flavor, not in calories. With light olive oil, little taste remains due to multiple pressings and fine filtration.

Refined oil has been filtered until it’s transparent, making it better for high-heat cooking. Look for brands like Spectrum that don’t use harsh chemicals, like hexane, during refinement.

Expeller-pressed Oil is extracted by crushing the seeds, nuts or fruit in a mechanical press without the use of environmentally nasty chemicals. Unfortunately, companies may still use chemicals later on in the refining process.

Cold-pressed These oils are expeller-pressed in a low-heat environment which is said to preserve nutrients, flavor and aroma. “Using hot water during pressing gets more oil out of the seed but it’s the oil industry’s version of cheating,” says Peggy Knickerbocker, author of Olive Oil, From Tree to Table.

Product of Italy This may mean that the oil was bottled in Italy but not necessarily that the olives were grown there. Manufacturers do this because “Product of Italy” has cachet with consumers.

 Organic The nuts, seeds or fruit that the oil comes from are grown without pesticides or herbicides. In addition, no dangerous chemicals and no genetically modified ingredients are used during processing. For product purity, organic is your best bet.

Vegetable Oil Usually a blend of low-grade, chemically processed oils, such as soybean, corn and sunflower.

How to Store Oils

Oil’s enemies are oxygen, heat and light. This is particularly true for oils with a high polyunsaturated fat content (e.g., hempseed and flaxseed), since this fat is very susceptible to oxidation. That means you should purchase oils packaged in dark glass bottles and store them in a cool, dark place to slow rancidity. Most oils become cloudy and solidify when chilled but return to normal after a few minutes at room temperature. Many dietary oils have a shelf life of around 12 months from pressing (not purchasing). When oil starts to smell musty, pitch it.

The Good, Bad and Ugly

Heart disease, cancer, diabetes, obesity. Is there any illness that hasn’t been blamed on consuming too much fat? Thing is, fat is not a monolithic enemy. When it comes to your health, it’s not so much a matter of how much fat, but instead which fat you put on your plate that’s of primary importance. Here’s a quick rundown on which fat is where it’s at.

Monounsaturated Fat: Good

An unsaturated fat such as oleic acid found primarily in plant foods, including olive and avocado oils that has a single double bond (hence, the “mono”) in the fatty acid chain. Research suggests this fat boosts heart health by reducing inflammation and increasing beneficial HDL cholesterol while lowering harmful LDL cholesterol levels.

Polyunsaturated Fat: Good

From a chemical standpoint, polyunsatuated fats are fats that have more than one double-bond and are liquids are room temperature. They include essential omega-6 and omega-3 fats that your body needs but can’t produce itself so you must glean these from food. Like monounsaturated fat, poly fats are heart healthy especially when they replace some saturated fats or trans fats. Still, omega-6s need to be balanced with omega-3s as discussed. By far the powerhouse fats in this category are the omega-3s found in cold-water, fatty fish such as salmon, sardines and trout called EPA and DHA which fight everything from heart disease to depression to an expanding waistline.

Saturated Fat: Good and Bad

Saturated fats rep as a major cholesterol booster is why the American Heart Association gives it thumbs down. Problem is that not all saturated fats are created equal. By all accounts lauric acid (found in coconut and palm oil) and stearic acid (found in chocolate) have little, if any, negative influence on cholesterol levels. The same cannot be said for palmitic acid present in fatty beef, poultry skin, butter and dairy. This is the sat fat to be weary of as it can reduce insulin functioning, promote weight gain and negatively impact cardiovascular health.

Trans Fat: Awful

These are vegetable oils that have been altered (hydrogenated) converting them to a more solid state such as margarine and shortening. Food manufactures love this cheap fat because it extends a products shelf life and makes packaged foods creamier or crisper. But health wise, they’re a disaster linked to everything from diabetes to cancer to heart disease. Like Baywatch re-runs, avoid trans fats at all costs. The majority of trans fat intake in this country comes from fried foods, pastries, chips, and cookies. But thanks to new label laws requiring food companies to list trans fat and increased media attention about the health dangers of it, many food manufactures and fast-food joints are ditching this health pariah. Many restaurants now have their nutrition info online, making it easier for you to choose items lower in trans fat. 

California Dreaming

Americans drizzle about 60 million gallons of olive oil annually and most of it comes from across the Atlantic. Spurred on by quality concerns about some European extra-virgin olive oils (i.e., they’re cut with low-grade hazelnut oil or they contain olives from different farms, a no-no for purists), along with the desire to consume foods grown closer to home, more olive oil aficionados are turning to California for their peppery fix.

And for good reason. Those bearing the California Olive Oil Council seal adhere to stringent regulations: Extra-virgin olive oil must be mechanically extracted without high heat or chemicals and must pass picky blind-taste tests. In addition, these oils can contain no more than 0.5 percent acid (international standards are 0.8 percent). California producers often get their oils from field to store more quickly, meaning these oils may be fresher. For more about single-estate, world-class Golden State olive oil, go to cooc.com.