Tour de Laos

Plenty

December 2008

A two-wheeled ramble through this surprisingly eco-friendly country reveals untouched villages, Buddhist icons, and ample outdoor adventure, all for $15 a day.

No longer closed off from the world by a xenophobic ruling party, Laos is experiencing a renaissance ripe for rugged travelers. Small (about Oregon’s size) and land-locked, bordered by Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Burma and China, Laos is what Thailand was circa 1980, with plenty of unexplored wilds, minimal super-chain presence and bargain-basement prices. And it’s got a green twist: As part of its increasing commitment to eco-responsibility, the communist Lao government has set aside more than 15 percent of its land as National Biodiversity Conservation reserves, making it one of the most protected countries in the world.

The virtually traffic-free roads, from well-paved mountain traverses in the north to flatter, sometimes unpaved expanses in the south, enticed my partner, Tabi Ferguson, to put our bikes in boxes along with our luggage and I pedal the country. We cycled from the northwest to the deep south, visiting a mix of well-known and off-the-path places to get a biker’s–eye view of what this pedalers’ paradise (and former French colonial holding) has to offer. While it’s small, Laos is packed with diversity, including an astonishing 100-plus ethnic groups and terrain that includes everything from pristine jungles to mighty rivers, all navigable in the span of  leisurly 5 weeks.

Luang Prabang

Designated a world heritage city by UNESCO in 1995, this historical center of Theravada Buddhism (which remains the country’s primary religion) sits at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers in northeastern Laos. On the ride here, we got into the Laos groove by passing rustic villages —mostly collections of bamboo houses on stilts—where the locals showered us with loud choruses of sabai di (“hello”), while the clickety-clack of looms sounded in the background.

Luang Prabang’s tradition of religious devotion is on display in its 30-plus temples, mostly in the compact Old City, where coconut palms sway overhead and jocular, young monks gather in their shade. Wat Xiang Thong, built in 1560, with its characteristically sweeping roof that nearly touches the ground, is a standout, with gold motifs everywhere.

We spend several days soaking in the atmosphere, visiting the many textile shops and restaurants tucked away in well-worn French colonial homes, called shophouses. Cold mango and pineapple shakes at L’Etranger Books & Tea, one of the town’s many cafes, are a welcome respite from the midday sizzle. In the evening, we wander the half-mile long street market, where stunning silk scarves and handstitched bags are inexpensive trophies, and salted Mekong fish stuffed with lemongrass, accompanied by fiery papaya salads are transcendent street food. At daybreak, we would wake to the clanging and thumping – the sound fo the drums and cymbals played by saffron-robed monks as they prepare to collect their morning alms.

For a day trip, try the 20-mile ride from Prabang along the Mekong on a quiet road dotted with ethnic Khamu villages. You’ll end at Tat Kuang Si waterfall, which tumbles over limestone rocks, through lush vegetation,  into a series of deep-azure pools.

Vang Viang

The 130 miles of rollercoaster hills between Luang Prabang and Vang Viang to the south include views of perhaps the nation’s most stunning peak, Phu Pha,a chunk of karst rock that penetrates the late afternoon haze. Nestled in a valley on the banks of the Nam Xong river in north-central Laos, Viang is surrounded by mountains, misty jungle, capacious caves witness to postcard sunsets, making it a popular spot for outdoor adventures, from kayaking to rock climbing. Ignore the banal hotels, internet cafes, and unappetizing westernized restaurants in town and focus instead on tramping and mountain biking among the mountains of Phan Tang and Phatto Nokham under the canopy of virgin rainforest.

At day’s end, the Vang Viang Organic Farm Café is the place to refuel with frugal vegetarian fare like spring rolls, harvest curries and mulberry shakes - sans pesticides. Two miles from town, the eponymous farm that supplies the café’s ambrosial edibles provides picturesque accommodations where guests can get their hands dirty in the demonstration garden. Activist Thanongsi Solangkoun started the project—staffed entirely by Hmong and Kmou ethnic minorities—to demonstrate that there are viable, sustainable alternatives to the local slash-and-burn agriculture.

Bolaven Plateau

Biding adieu to the north, it takes us about a week to ride to the southern province of Champasak and the fertile Bolavan Plateau, where coffee is the dominant crop. (Bolaven farmers’ tend their fields among unexploded US ordinance, a dark legacy of the Vietnam War.) The region’s high altitude brings welcome respite from the humidity of the Mekong valley, and, while the roads can be unkempt and undulating, we savor the scarcity of of cars and scooters.    

The main attraction here are hikes organized by Green Discovery Tours with local, English speaking guides. We start at the Tad Fan nature resort on the edge of the tiger-friendly Dong Hua Sao reserve, with a head-on view of the Tad Fan waterfall cascading from primeval jungle and dropping some 120 meters below. We spend the rest of the day hopping between spectacular tumbling chutes; Alak, Laven, and Suay ethnic villages, and visiting bird-saturated coffee plantations.

Khiet Ngong

A full day’s pedal from the Bolaven on a teeth-jittering, dust-filled road is Khiet Ngong, a village in the deep south. Nearby, the tony Lao-Italian run King Fisher Eco-Lodge sits on the fringes of the massive 2665-square-kilometer Xe Pain National Protected Area. Far removed from the cultural and scenic draws of the north, this is a gem that’s off the tourist map.

Surrounded by a mix of deciduous forest, plains, and wetlands, it’s believed endangered clouded leopards, tigers, elephants, and even rhinoceros still roam here. Solar energy powers the water and electricity; only village locals are hired as guides and hotel staff; and programs stemming illegal hunting and logging ensure that King Fisher treads lightly and responsibly.

            In need of a little downtime, we forgo many of the adventurous biking and hiking activities on offer, and instead enjoy our roomy stilt wood bungalow and cushy hammocks. From our balcony we watch resident elephants splash their way across the front-door wetland. Beyond the gentle giants is what appears to be an endless stretch of wetland, a testament to a country that is shaking its third-world stigma while treasuring its natural gifts.

By Air

There are no direct flights to Laos from North America. Your best bet is to fly into Bangkok and then connect to Vientiane or Luang Prabang with Lao Airlines (www.laoairlines.com) or Air Asia (www.airasia.com).

By Land

Ecotourism Laos (www.ecotourismlaos.com) is an excellent one-stop resource for treading lightly and the scoop on treehugging accommodations and guiding services.

If you prefer more support, Tiger Trails (www.laos-adventures.com; +856-71-212-311) offers several bike touring options. As a member of Fair Trek (a Luang Prabang based initiative between gov’t officials, villages, tour operators and NGO’s), they are active in supporting local employment and environmental initiatives including reforestation and elephant care and conservation.

Luang Prabang

Aspara Hotel (www.apsara.com; (+856-71-254-670)

This reinvented colonial shophouse has atmospheric rooms with commanding views of the Nam Khan river.

L’Etranger, Books & Tea (booksinlaos@yahoo.com; +856-020-537-7826)

Try the fruit shakes here, where you can also get free water bottle refills.

Tamarind (www.tamarindlaos.com; +856-020-777-0484) Take a break from temple-hopping with a one day cooking class using traditional ingredients sourced from local organic family farms.

Score striking Laotian textiles at Kopnoï (www.madeinlaos.com; +856-071-260-248), Ock Pop Tok (www.ockpoptok.com; +856-071-253-219), Mulberries (www.mulberries.org; +856-021-561-271) or in nearby Ban Phanom village. These places ensure that weavers are fairly compensated.

Vang Viang

Vang Viang Organic Farm Café and Farm (www.laofarm.org; + 856 - 23 - 511 - 220)

Accommodation are spare, but profits are used to support sustainable agriculture, English lessons for the community and the maintenance of a school bus and community center. Bolaven Plateau

Tad Fan Nature Resort (www.tadfane.com; +856 (0)20 553 1400)

14 cushy bungalows and a restaurant with a panorama of Dong Hua Sao reserve.

Green Discovery (www.greendiscoverylaos.com; +856-21-264-528)

Offer a wide range of outings including hiking, rafting, and biking in well-placed offices throughout Laos, including Pakxe, about 20 miles west of the Bolaven

Khiet Ngong

King Fisher Eco-Lodge (www.kingfisherecolodge.com; +856-030-534-5016)

Nature, outdoor activities and good grub abound in this idyllic setting.

En Route: 15-day visas on arrival are available at most border crossing and airports and can be extended in the capital of Vientiane.

The rainy season generally runs from May to September. November to February are the driest months and ideal for adventure pursuits.